The poverty in Ireland was a continual trial to our sensibilities； beggars haunted our footsteps everywhere， in the street and on the highways， crouching on the steps of the front door and on the curbstones， and surrounding our carriage wherever and whenever we stopped to shop or make a visit. The bony hands and sunken eyes and sincere gratitude expressed for every penny proved their suffering real. As my means were limited and I could not pass one by， I got a pound changed into pennies， and put them in a green bag， which I took in the carriage wherever I went. It was but a drop in the ocean， but it was all I could do to relieve that unfathomed misery. The poverty I saw everywhere in the Old World， and especially in Ireland， was a puzzling problem to my mind， but I rejected the idea that it was a necessary link in human experience杢hat it always had been and always must be.
As we drove， day by day， in that magnificent Phoenix Park， of fifteen hundred acres， one of the largest parks， I believe， in the world， I would often put the question to myself， what right have the few to make a pleasure ground of these acres， while the many have nowhere to lay their heads， crouching under stiles and bridges， clothed in rags， and feeding on seaweed with no hope， in the slowly passing years， of any change for the better？
The despair stamped on every brow told the sad story of their wrongs. Those accustomed to such everyday experiences brush beggars aside as they would so many flies， but those to whom such sights are new cannot so easily quiet their own consciences. Everyone in the full enjoyment of all the blessings of life， in his normal condition， feels some individual responsibility for the poverty of others. When the sympathies are not blunted by any false philosophy， one feels reproached by one's own abundance. I once heard a young girl， about to take her summer outing， when asked by her grandmother if she had all the dresses she needed， reply， "Oh， yes！ I was oppressed with a constant sense of guilt， when packing， to see how much I had， while so many girls have nothing decent to wear."
More than half a century has rolled by since I stood on Irish soil， and shed tears of pity for the wretchedness I saw， and no change for the better has as yet come to that unhappy people杫et this was the land of Burke， Grattan， Shiel， and Emmett； the land into which Christianity was introduced in the fifth century， St. Patrick being the chief apostle of the new faith. In the sixth century Ireland sent forth missionaries from her monasteries to convert Great Britain and the nations of Northern Europe.
From the eighth to the twelfth century Irish scholars held an enviable reputation. In fact， Ireland was the center of learning at one time. The arts， too， were cultivated by her people； and the round towers， still pointed out to travelers， are believed to be the remains of the architecture of the tenth century. The ruin of Ireland must be traced to other causes than the character of the people or the Catholic religion. Historians give us facts showing English oppressions sufficient to destroy any nation.
The short， dark days of November intensified， in my eyes， the gloomy prospects of that people， and made the change to the Sirius of the Cunard Line， the first regular Atlantic steamship to cross the ocean， most enjoyable. Once on the boundless ocean， one sees no beggars， no signs of human misery， no crumbling ruins of vast cathedral walls， no records of the downfall of mighty nations， no trace， even， of the mortal agony of the innumerable host buried beneath her bosom. Byron truly says： "Time writes no wrinkle on thine azure brow？
Such as creation's dawn beheld， thou rollest now." When we embarked on the Sirius， we had grave doubts as to our safety and the probability of our reaching the other side， as we did not feel that ocean steamers had yet been fairly tried. But， after a passage of eighteen days， eleven hours， and fifteen minutes， we reached Boston， having spent six hours at Halifax. We little thought that the steamer Sirius of fifty years ago would ever develop into the magnificent floating palaces of to-day杢hree times as large and three times as swift. In spite of the steamer， however， we had a cold， rough， dreary voyage， and I have no pleasant memories connected with it. Our fellow-passengers were all in their staterooms most of the time. Our good friend Mr. Birney had sailed two weeks before us， and as Mr. Stanton was confined to his berth， I was thrown on my own resources. I found my chief amusement in reading novels and playing chess with a British officer on his way to Canada. When it was possible I walked on deck with the captain， or sat in some sheltered corner， watching the waves. We arrived in New York， by rail， the day before Christmas. Everything looked bright and gay in our streets. It seemed to me that the sky was clearer， the air more refreshing， and the sunlight more brilliant than in any other land！
