I arrived at Cadiz on the second day of August,when I waited upon Mr.Brackenbury,the British consul-general.His house,which is the corner one at the entrance of the ALAMEDA or public walk,enjoys a noble prospect of the bay,and is very large and magnificent.I had of course long been acquainted with Mr.B.by reputation.I knew that for many years he bad filled with advantage to his native country and with honour to himself the distinguished and highly responsible situation which he holds in Spain.I knew likewise that he was a good and pious Christian,and moreover the firm and enlightened friend of the Bible Society.Of all this I was aware;but I had never enjoyed the advantage of being personally acquainted with him.I saw him now indeed for the first time.I was much struck with his appearance;there is much dignity in his countenance,which is,however,softened by an expression of good humour truly captivating and engaging.His manner is frank and affable in the extreme.I am not going to enter into minute details of our interview,which was a very interesting one to myself.He knew already the leading parts of my history since my arrival in Spain,and made several comments thereon which displayed his intimate knowledge of the situation of Spain,as regards ecclesiastical matters,and the state of opinion respecting religious innovation.I was flattered to find that his ideas in many points accorded with my own,and we were both decidedly of opinion that,notwithstanding the great persecution and outcry which had lately been raised against the Gospel,the battle was by no means lost in Spain,and that we might yet hope to see the holy cause triumph.
During my stay at Cadiz I experienced every kind of hospitality from Mr.B.and his charming family.Upon my departure he supplied me with a letter of introduction to Mr.Hay,the British consul at Tangiers,which I have since learned was most flattering to myself and worded in the most energetic manner.I quitted Cadiz on the morning of Sunday,the 4th August,in the steamer BALEAR,arriving at Gibraltar on the evening of the same day.Nothing particular occurred to me during my stay at Gibraltar,where I engaged my passage on board a small trading vessel for Tangiers.We were detained by various causes until Thursday the 8th,when we sailed about noon,and assisted by a strong and favourable wind we reached the harbour of Tangiers before sunset.I was not permitted to go on shore that night,my passport and bill of health having first to be examined by the authorities.Early however on the following morning,Mr.Hay,who had received Mr.Brackenbury's letters of introduction,sent a Moorish soldier and his own servant to conduct me to his house,where he received me in the kindest manner.He bad already procured me a comfortable lodging in the house of a Christian woman where I have remained ever since my arrival at Tangiers,constantly receiving every species of attention and civility from Ir.Hay.
Tangiers stands on the side of a rather steep hill which rises above the sea.It is a walled town,and towards the water is defended with batteries mounted with heavy cannon.The streets are very numerous and intersect each other in all directions;they are narrow and precipitous,and the houses low,small and mean.The principal mosque,or JAMMA [DJMAH]is rather a handsome edifice,and its tower,or SUMAH,which is built of bricks of various colours,presents a picturesque appearance when viewed from the sea:of its interior I can of course say little,as any Christian who should venture to intrude would be instantly cast forth and probably killed by the populace.About half way up the hill within the town there is a small market-place called in the language of the country SOC.It is surrounded with little shops or booths,in which all kinds of dry fruits,such as dates,raisins,almonds,and walnuts are exposed for sale,and also honey,soap,sugar,and such other articles of grocery.These little shops are not in general kept by Moors,but by people from the country of Suz,who speak a different language from the Moors,and are of a different race,being a branch of the Berber stem;they are the grocers of Barbary and are,in comparison with the Moors,an honest,peaceable,and industrious people.The castle of the Governor stands at the northern extremity of Tangiers,on the top of a high eminence which towers above the town;its outer walls embrace a very large portion of ground,which is principally occupied by large edifices in the greatest dilapidation and decay.The castle itself when I visited it was undergoing repair,during the absence of the pasha who has since returned.All its inlets and outlets and also the greatest part of the apartments were choked up with ruins,rubbish,and mortar.The courtyard however is very fine,and is adorned with a fountain distilling limpid water,which is a rare spectacle in Tangiers where water is not in abundance.At each end of this court there is a hall of audience,highly magnificent in its way,with a roof of rich fretted work in the old Moorish taste,such as I have seen in the Alhambra of Granada,and in that truly fairy palace the Alcazar of Seville.
